Eight in the evening is when Triana’s tapas bars come back to life. Most counters close their kitchens around 4pm, and the second service starts at 8pm or 8.30pm, which is when a visitor walking over the bridge for dinner finds the shutters going up. Arrive at 6pm and the choice is three places.
Triana is the neighbourhood on the west bank of the Guadalquivir, and its tapas streets sit 422 metres from the Puente de Triana. Las Golondrinas, on Calle Antillano Campos, charges 3.30 to 3.50 euros for most grilled tapas and opens seven days a week. Blanca Paloma, on Calle San Jacinto, closes on Sundays, and the riverfront on Calle Betis adds roughly a euro to the same tapa.
Where should you eat tapas in Triana? At the counters between Calle Pagés del Corro and Calle San Jacinto: Las Golondrinas on Antillano Campos, rated 4.3 on Google, with tapas at 3.30 to 3.50 euros, and Blanca Paloma, rated 4.5, Monday to Saturday. For a booked table, Puratasca; for the river view, Calle Betis, where tapas cost 3.50 to 4.50 euros.
How a Triana tapas bar works if it is your first time
A tapa in Triana is a small plate ordered at the bar and paid for, not a free snack with a drink. Las Golondrinas lists each dish as a tapa or as a ración, a full plate of six pieces that costs 21.00 euros for the pork tenderloin tip against 3.50 euros for the tapa.
Four habits that save confusion:
- Order at the bar for tapas. At Blanca Paloma the counter is first come, first served and only the dining room takes bookings. At La Primera del Puente tapas are served at the bar only; the terrace gets half and full portions.
- Expect a bread charge. Las Golondrinas adds 1.20 euros per person for bread and picos, the small breadsticks, states that taxes are included in its prices and lists no service charge beyond the bread.
- Look for the bilingual menu. The menu Las Golondrinas publishes for its Antillano Campos bar has every dish in English, and La Primera del Puente prints its menu in five languages besides Spanish.
- Eat on Spanish time. Lunch runs from about 12pm to 4pm and dinner from 8pm to midnight at most of the bars below.
Getting there is a walk: the Puente de Triana is 938 metres from Seville Cathedral, about 13 minutes. Metro line 1 stops at Plaza de Cuba, at the south end of the neighbourhood, and a metro single ticket without zone changes costs 1.35 euros according to the Consorcio de Transporte Metropolitano. A city bus ride costs 1.40 euros according to TUSSAM, paid on board or by contactless bank card.
Which street in Triana for which kind of evening
The inland streets hold the standing bars, the western edge the sit-down taverns and Calle Betis the river terraces. From Las Golondrinas to Blanca Paloma is 251 metres; Puratasca, on Calle Numancia, is 618 metres west of Las Golondrinas.
Calle Pagés del Corro, Antillano Campos and San Jacinto are for hopping between counters. Bus C3 stops at San Jacinto (Pagés del Corro), right outside Blanca Paloma. Calle Pureza has Bar Santa Ana, 38 metres from Santa Ana church and open from 9.30am. Calle Castilla, towards Ronda de Triana, has Taberna Sol y Sombra, 817 metres from the market, about 11 minutes. Calle Betis faces the Torre del Oro across the river. For daytime sights in the neighbourhood, see what to see in Triana.
Where to go in Triana and what to order first
Ratings below are Google averages, with the review count rounded down.
Las Golondrinas, Calle Antillano Campos 26. Rated 4.3 with more than 1,500 reviews. The original bar of the family, open since 1962, small and built for standing. Order the punta de solomillo, a grilled pork tenderloin tip, and the chipirones, small squid in green sauce, both 3.50 euros, plus the caballito, grilled ham on toasted bread, at 3.30. Bookings on +34 954 33 16 26.
Las Golondrinas, Calle Pagés del Corro 76. Rated 4.2 with more than 6,200 reviews. The same family opened it in 2007, 102 metres away, with a bar downstairs, dining rooms upstairs and outdoor tables. It suits a group that wants to sit; bookings on +34 954 33 82 35.
Blanca Paloma, Calle San Jacinto 49. Rated 4.5 with more than 5,900 reviews, the highest of the classic counters. The house singles out its garlic prawns, sirloin in whisky sauce, homemade croquettes and ensaladilla, the Spanish potato salad. It now belongs to Grupo Batuta, a Seville restaurant group.
Bar Santa Ana, Calle Pureza 82. Rated 4.2 with more than 2,400 reviews. Family run and open from 9.30am to midnight, and until 1am Friday to Sunday, so it covers the afternoon gap.
Puratasca, Calle Numancia 5. Rated 4.6 with more than 2,200 reviews. Creative sharing plates from 8.00 to 24.00 euros rather than tapas: chicken-stew ensaladilla at 11.50 euros, creamy mushroom rice at 12.50 and an oxtail toastie at 13.50. Book on +34 954 33 16 21; the kitchen closes 30 minutes before the restaurant.
Taberna Sol y Sombra, Calle Castilla 151. Rated 4.3 with more than 2,600 reviews. A bullfighting-themed tavern since 1961 with oxtail and cured meats from the Sierra de Huelva. Book on +34 954 333 935.
For the other side of the river, from El Rinconcillo to the Arenal, see the best tapas bars in Seville.
A self-guided Triana tapas crawl, bar by bar
A four-bar crawl from the Puente de Triana to Plaza de Cuba metro covers 1,983 metres, about 26 minutes of walking, with no tour fee. It works Monday to Saturday from 8pm.
Start at Las Golondrinas on Antillano Campos, 422 metres from the bridge, about 6 minutes, with two tapas from the grill. Blanca Paloma is 251 metres on, about 3 minutes, for croquettes or ensaladilla at the counter. Then walk 634 metres along Calle Pureza, about 8 minutes, to Bar Santa Ana, and finish 328 metres further, about 4 minutes, at La Primera del Puente, with a last tapa at the bar facing the river.
Plaza de Cuba metro is 348 metres from the last stop. On a Sunday, skip Blanca Paloma and walk from Las Golondrinas straight to Bar Santa Ana, 617 metres. For a daytime visit to the market first, see Triana Market hours.
Is Calle Betis worth it for the river view?
Calle Betis costs a little more per tapa and scores lower on Google. La Primera del Puente charges 4.00 euros for grilled mushrooms and 4.50 for squid or a pork skewer, against 3.30 and 3.50 at Las Golondrinas, a difference of 0.70 to 1.00 euro per tapa.
La Primera del Puente is rated 3.6 on Google with more than 2,500 reviews, the lowest on this list. Kiosco de las Flores, at Calle Betis 74 and open since 1930, is rated 4.1 with more than 4,300 reviews and serves full and half portions with no tapa size; a small Victoria beer costs 2.90 euros and a large one 4.20. Its kitchen runs all day, from 12pm to 11pm and to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays, which makes it the riverside option at 6pm. For lunch on the city side of the river, by area and hour, see where to eat in Seville.
When Triana bars close, and who it may not suit
Sunday evening and the mid-afternoon are the two gaps. On Sundays Blanca Paloma and Puratasca are closed and the Mercado de Triana bars shut at 5pm; between 4.30pm and 8pm on weekdays only Bar Santa Ana, Kiosco de las Flores and the market bars serve.
| Bar | Closed | Who it may not suit |
|---|---|---|
| Blanca Paloma | Sunday | Anyone wanting a booked spot at the counter |
| Casa Ruperto, Avenida Santa Cecilia 2 | Thursday, Wednesday evening and all of August | Summer visitors |
| Puratasca | Sunday | Anyone after cheap traditional tapas |
| Taberna Sol y Sombra | Sunday in summer; Monday lunch in summer | Anyone on the short crawl, 817 metres away |
| Las Golondrinas, Antillano Campos | Open daily | Groups and pushchairs: the bar is narrow |
| La Primera del Puente | Open daily | Anyone choosing by rating: 3.6 on Google |
Casa Ruperto, rated 4.5 with more than 3,700 reviews, sits at the far end of San Jacinto, 383 metres beyond Blanca Paloma. In July and August, plan the terrace for after dark; Seville in August has the hour-by-hour heat.
Tapas in Triana, your questions answered
What are the best tapas bars in Triana?
For classic tapas at the counter, Las Golondrinas on Calle Antillano Campos, rated 4.3 on Google, and Blanca Paloma on Calle San Jacinto, rated 4.5 and closed on Sundays. For a sit-down meal with a booking, Puratasca, rated 4.6, serves creative sharing plates from 8 to 24 euros.
How much do tapas cost in Triana?
At Las Golondrinas on Calle Antillano Campos, most grilled tapas cost 3.30 or 3.50 euros, with lamb chops at 6.20 and bread charged at 1.20 euros per person. On Calle Betis, La Primera del Puente charges 3.50 to 4.50 euros a tapa, served at the bar only.
Do Triana tapas bars have English menus?
Some do. The menu Las Golondrinas publishes for its Antillano Campos bar lists every dish in Spanish and English, and La Primera del Puente on Calle Betis publishes its menu in English, German, French, Italian and Portuguese. At smaller counters the dishes are often only on a board, so pointing works.
Are Triana tapas bars open on Sundays?
Las Golondrinas, Bar Santa Ana, La Primera del Puente and Kiosco de las Flores open on Sunday evenings. Blanca Paloma and Puratasca are closed all day, the bars in the Mercado de Triana shut at 5pm, and Taberna Sol y Sombra closes on Sundays in summer.
Is Calle Betis worth it for tapas?
For the view, yes; for the food, the inland streets score higher. La Primera del Puente on Calle Betis is rated 3.6 on Google and charges about one euro more per tapa than Las Golondrinas, rated 4.3. Kiosco de las Flores, rated 4.1, serves full and half portions only.
Triana rewards the visitor who eats at the counter after 8pm and saves the river for the last drink.